Herm, Channel Islands, UK
“Traveling tends to magnify all human emotions.” Peter Hoeg
Magical. That’s the first word that came to mind when I visited Herm and it’s the word most others who have visited use too. I first popped over from Guernsey for a half day trip and fell in love with it immediately, the clear air, crystal waters, lack of cars and pollution so all that’s left is the strong smell of flora and fauna with breathtaking sea views.
After that initial trip we caught the last ferry back to Guernsey and sat in a waterfront cafe with a view of Herm and I stared at it knowing I had to go back. 5 months later I returned for a romantic long weekend on the island which was set against perfect late summer weather.
Our apartment was in The Settlement, an island community of resident’s cottages, a school, church and holiday cottages. This was a few minutes uphill from the main tourist area which itself consisted merely of a tourist office, shop, hotel and pub all within 2 minutes walk of each other. I can get lost anywhere but it would actually be impossible to get lost here.
Herm is around 0.75 square miles, in the middle of the island you can always see the sea, follow the coastal path and you reach the town. It is owned by Guernsey and currently leased to a trust who manage the island. There are no private residences on Herm, you can only live there if you work there. Most of the island is made up of fields separated by old stone walls and hedgerows, the coastal path is rustic with stunning vistas at every step.
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Stunning clear views from Upper Keep apartment
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The settlement - it has a distinctly French feel to it
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Upper Keep bedroom
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Upper Keep apartment
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Belvoir beach
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No traffic, no pollution, just nature
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Herm from the air
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The famous Rosaire steps - the landing point for ferries
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Sunset from Upper Keep apartment, looking towards Guernsey
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Derelict tower in the settlement
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Wild blackberries
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Shell beach from the coastal path
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Shell beach, which curls around the north east of the island
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Late afternoon walks around the island, picking blackberries
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Belvoir beach - a hidden gem
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Upper Keep apartment - top of the castle
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View from Upper Keep apartment
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Just over the hill from the town is Belvoir beach, I actually gasped the first time I saw it. A little crescent of pale sand, free of litter and bordered by rocks, foliage and an unassuming beach cafe. We were out of the main tourist season but Herm is very popular with Guernsey residents, however there were no more than 30 of us on the beach on the weekend days, plenty of room for all and a lovely relaxed atmosphere all day. All of this was a 10 minute walk from our apartment.
During our stay we had hot sunny beach days followed by balmy late afternoons when, back from the beach, we walked the coastal path and picked wild blackberries. We’d watch the sunset over the west of the island, Guernsey in the distance from our balcony, followed by evenings cool enough to justify a real fire in our apartment. It was the best of all climates rolled into one day.
Getting there
We flew from Southampton with Blue Islands airline, now part of Flybe. Our flights included a luggage allowance so we could take our own food. We got a taxi to the dock for around £15 each way and then a ferry to Herm for £13 round trip.
It’s worth having a few hours spare between ferry and plane rides to spend in St Peter Port on Guernsey which has lovely views of the English Channel and some fantastic restaurants.
Transport
Herm does not have any cars, just a few quad bikes and tractors, lovely! Luggage is dropped off at your accommodation for you within an hour of arrival. The village and accommodation is all close together but to make the most of the island, take a pair of walking shoes!
Accommodation
We stayed at Upper Keep apartment at a special rate of £297 for 3 nights, one of many apartments and cottages for rent. Alternatively there is a campsite, wooden cabins and a hotel. All are exclusively bookable through the island’s website.
Restaurants
White House hotel has a restaurant, the best seats have a view of the sea but these need to be pre-booked. They have a lovely menu
The Mermaid Tavern is the island’s only pub, it’s quaint with simple pub food and gets very busy in summer. Unfortunately the terrace doesn’t have a sea view but it’s a great spot for evening drinks.
Shopping
The food available for self catering on island is negligible. You can pre-order food but nothing fresh. At the time of my visit I was on a health kick so I packed my own food for the weekend, taking advantage of the generous luggage allowance. We then bought gin and beer in a shop by the dock in Guernsey. This saved us a significant amount of money on eating out and was much healthier.
The souvenir shop has a surprisingly good range of souvenirs and clothing.
Infrastructure
They have a cellphone network from Guernsey, but it’s an international call if you’re from outside the Channel Islands.
The apartments and restaurants have WiFi.
Activities
There is kayaking, the odd tour and sometimes independent companies organise yoga retreats and such on the island.
For me, this isn’t an island for active holidays with the exception of walking, I could walk that coastal path every day. This island is perfect to breathe, relax, talk, read and just be.
Weather
